
Taking that first step to building a watch collection can be daunting. Lucky you’ve got BURO. to show you the way
This is your classic – your camel overcoat, perfect pair of jeans, cashmere roll neck. It should go with everything, but also be a signifier of your personal style. It also has to be practical. If your day-to-day life involves rock climbing, you aren’t going to want to do that wearing a delicate bracelet watch. If suits are your uniform, then a diving watch with a chunky bezel is impractical for wholly different reasons.
As you are going to be wearing this purchase every day, do take into account durability. Not exactly the sexiest thing to think about, but all it means is opt for steel, or anything hard wearing such as titanium, over super-soft gold.
Aesthetically there’s some latitude in this category, especially if your personal style is more experimental. The only hard and fast rule is – buy with your heart not your head. If you’re going to be looking at something every day, you have to love it. Come to think of it, the same rule applies with partners, doesn’t it?
Pretty self-explanatory this category – watches you can dive in. Though you do need to be wary. To get technical for a second, the ISO (International Organisation for Standardisation) 6425 pertaining to diving watches states that for it to be a diving watch it has to be water resistant to 200m. Some naughty brands use the term “diving watch” to refer to timepieces only good to 100m or 150m. That’s fine if all you want to do is splash in the shallows, but if you actually want to swim with the fishes then it’s 200m or more on the water resistance front. Looks wise these are usually more sporty styles, with big unidirectional bezels and rubber straps, though TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer bucks that trend entirely. Diamonds can also be found in this category, if you’re unable to do without, but steer clear of leather straps. They do not play well with water.
This is a broad church style-wise encompassing everything from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso (originally made for polo players) to a Tudor Black Bay 36, which is a no-nonsense tool watch. What you’re looking for here is something durable; probably in steel or titanium; shock resistant and with a decent water resistance. Take the word “sport” to mean a watch that can be bashed about a bit – so no gold or finnicky bits that could fall off. You can still have sparkles though.
Every woman needs an after-dark number; something small and diamond-encrusted that makes her feel she’s straight out of the Jazz Age. Maisons with added jewellery savoir faire are leaders in this field with the likes of Tiffany & Co; Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget making some of the most exquisite wrist candy around.
This is where you can indulge your precious stone fetish; experiment with more decadent metals and give your femininity full ebullience. Now is not the time for restraint.
Here are some tips from Patrick Graf, chef commercial officer at the Bucherer Group.