Watches + Jewellery

OH YOU PRETTY THINGS

Meet the new jewellery brands you never knew you’d love this much

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Independent designers have transformed the fine jewellery landscape in the last decade, bringing a cool, contemporary aesthetic to the once-traditional world of precious metals and diamonds. Ana Khouri, Repossi, Delfina Delettrez, Sophie Bille Brahe: many of the brands loved by the world’s most stylish women began their rise to fame at Dover Street Market, which is celebrating its 15th anniversary this month. Technology, meanwhile, has changed the game completely. Threads Styling uses social media and mobile messaging to showcase the latest pieces from big-name brands and niche designers, often straight from the polisher’s bench. So, we asked the experts at these trend-leading businesses to single out the up-and-coming jewellers to watch. Prepare to add these names to your wishlist.

Sophie Quy, Commercial Director at Threads, chose:

CompletedWorks

Founded by siblings Anna and Mark Jewsbury in 2013, this London-based label takes an academic approach to its conceptual designs - Anna studied mathematics and philosophy at Oxford University. Collections take inspiration from architectural ruins, political movements and the mutability of materials such as foam and clay. Worn by Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Alexa Chung, CompletedWorks’ pieces are handmade in London, and the brand’s ceramics take similarly sculptural, imperfect forms. “The pieces are minimal, yet so detailed in the design that they make a statement,” says Quy. “They have a real ‘cool-girl’ edge - the perfect jeans-and-white-tee jewellery, but they feel really refined so you could equally wear them with a ballgown.”


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Prasi

“Some of my favourite jewellery designers come from Brazil - Fernando Jorge, Ana Khouri, Silvia Furmanovich - and Prasi is the next Brazilian brand to watch,” says Quy. Satisfyingly weighty, chunky bi-colour chains nail the biggest trend of the season, while the signature Dois Irmãos ring (named after the rock formation in Rio de Janeiro) echoes the sensuous curves of mid-century Brazilian furniture. Pendants combine yellow, rose, white and green gold in elegant mosaic-like patterns, created by Italian goldsmiths who specialise in this century-old technique. No wonder Quy launched the brand on Threads just three days after meeting Helena Sicupira and Mariana Prates, the design duo behind it.


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Leda Madera

The brainchild of Guilia Tordini, whose sister Giorgia is one of the founders of cult fashion label The Attico, Leda Madera is a new costume jewellery brand with, says Quy, “an amazing Milanese twist”. Modelled on Threads by Tordini herself, the label offers “statement, contemporary pieces with Art Deco references.” Think Eighties-style bib necklaces, their geometric lattices accented with Swarovski crystals, oversized bi-metal earrings and chevron-patterned chokers. The collections are named after trendsetters for whom no surname is necessary: Goldie, Meryl, Isabella. “It’s the perfect party wear jewellery,” says Quy. Pair with power shoulders and your highest heels.


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By Pariah

There’s more to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley than flawless skin and an enviable pout: she has seriously good taste in jewellery, too. The model alerted Quy to one of Threads’ newly launched designers, By Pariah, when she posted an Instagram snap of herself, head wrapped in a towel, wearing the brand’s collarbone-grazing baroque pearl earrings. “Everyone loves the pearls but it’s also a go-to brand for incredible carved semi-precious stone pieces,” says Quy. Founder Sophie Karg has a sixth sense for the kind of jewellery women buy for themselves and wear every day, with single earrings and chunky coloured stone rings destined to be on heavy rotation in your jewellery wardrobe.


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Mimi Hoppen, Director of Jewellery for Dover Street Market, chose:

Maison Coco

Colette Marie, the founder of Los Angeles-based vintage jewellery brand Maison Coco, doesn’t play by the rules. Faced with an Elsa Peretti gold cuff, she made the bold move of plating it black and adorning it with a diamond-studded, subversive code. “As soon as I saw the collection I was intrigued - it was so different,” says Hoppen of the range of one-of-a-kind pieces, whose refurbishments are inspired by the codes used in secret societies such as the Freemasons. “I laughed so much when I heard the names of the pieces,” she continues. “That’s why our clients are going crazy for her jewellery: it’s luxurious yet striking, fun and personal.”


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Griegst

Not so much an up-and-coming brand as one reborn, Griegst was founded in Copenhagen by artist and goldsmith Arje Greigst and his wife Irene in 1963. A prolific creative force, Greigst’s jewellery, tableware, glassware and sculptures were collected by art connoisseurs and the Danish elite. Now his son Noam has delved into his late father’s incredible archive, using the original hand-carved wax moulds to recreate his free-flowing, organic designs. “Everything is handmade in Copenhagen and you can really feel that in the pieces,” says Hoppen. “There is a sense of craft that you don’t see in a lot of contemporary jewellery.”


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Nataf

A new arrival to Dover Street Market London after success at the New York outpost, Nataf originated in LA, where founder Shannon Nataf started out designing jewellery for her mother. An abstract celestial theme runs throughout her collections: pearls are orbited by bands of gold, and rings are cleverly set with diamonds or pearls on the underside, creating intriguing silhouettes and a sense of discreet luxury. Elsewhere, cloud formations and the phases of the moon form pared-back yet hugely impactful silhouettes. “I fell in love instantly with the simplicity and purity of Shannon’s designs - it’s jewellery I want to wear myself,” says Hoppen. High praise, indeed.


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Cadby & Co

“Although we work with jewellery designers from all around the world it is especially nice to support local British craft,” says Hoppen of Deborah Cadby, who works alongside her father, an antique jewellery dealer. Hoppen came across Cadby & Co earlier this year at the Goldsmiths Fair, an annual showcase of independent UK-based designer-makers. She was struck by the elegant minimalism of the pieces, hewn simply in brushed 22ct gold and platinum: all the better to showcase incredible old-cut stones, taken from antique jewels sourced by Cadby senior. “I was instantly drawn to the collection; I think they make the perfect contemporary engagement rings,” says Hoppen.


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IMAGE I Completedworks

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