02.10.2019
By Emma Firth

SS20 Runway Decoded

Want to know what to wear next season? From botanist chic and retro-futu
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1/5

Chanel’s understated luxury

The mood

Chanel's shows have always been the highlight of Paris Fashion Week, known for their classic codes of both glamour and sophistication. This season there was a strong youthfulness in the air, with a mix of tweed hot pants (into it), puffball skirts, Capri pants and ruffled denim jackets. The collection plays with simplicity and balance of volume for feminine touch - get ready to see a lot of haute hot pants and tweed playsuits next season. In the accessories department, we’ve got our beady eyes on the leather clutch bags and chain belts. An ode to classic French girl style. J’adore!

Setting the scene

The set comprised a Parisian rooftop: think rustic chimneys, faux windows and casement windows which models walked across. “The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague. I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs. I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg and all the actresses Gabrielle Chanel dressed at that time,” says Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of the Fashion collections.

The FROW

Caroline de Maigret, Alma Jodorowsky, Soo Joo Park, Nana Komatsu and Jennie Kim, as well as singers Cardi B, Angèle, Ace Tee and Yuna.

The BURO. verdict

I love wearability in clothing and Chanel's latest collection came together with desirable pieces that can be worn not only head to toe but plenty of pieces to pick to extend your summer wardrobe and last forever. Timeless classic pieces with an edge is the mood and direction taken from Chanel's latest collection. In particular I loved the denim, which seems to be having a moment in Paris for Spring and what's better than a pair that will last a lifetime in style and quality? It’s the perfect effortless french style look we all crave.” - Natalie Hartley, Fashion Director

2/5

Dries Van Noten & Christian Lacroix the big fantastical bromance

The mood

Nothing makes us more giddy than a so-hot-right-now fashion collaboration. The most talked about collision this season? Enter two of fashion’s greats, Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix, teaming up for a tour-de-force of a collection that made a strong case for decadence and excess in progressively hard times. The key takeaway: Go big. Think Dynasty-style 80s glamour, part eighteenth century sensibility. A masterclass in craftsmanship and taste, the Dries-Lacroix girl is into sweet foil wrapper colours, high drama, unconventional draping, patterns galore and textural play. The fashion titans - who worked together secretly for the past five months on the show - fused their styles for a maximalist offering that made for a poetic love letter to haute couture a new-gen. Staged in the Paris’ Opéra Bastille, the joyful collection incorporated lustrous textures, poufs (of course), polka dots, animal prints and rich brocades. In many ways, it was a nod to Christian Lacroix’s signature high-drama he once sent down the runways (he own house closed in 2009), with a mashup of lavish embellishment, animal prints and polka dots and dress up box drapery. The base was a more sober offering - an ode to 90s minimalist in many ways - pairing ballgowns and bustier dresses with white jeans and vest tops. Styling trick 101: mix over-the-top abundance with 90s minimalism.

Fashion soundbites

Dries Van Noten noted he was drawn to ‘to a love of dressing up, to couture, to beauty, to audacity — to joy’ and ‘quickly realized that all roads seemed to lead to the work and world — of Mr. Christian Lacroix.’

BURO’s verdict

“One word can sum up this show: magic. This was pure escapism - something that, in this age of political uncertainty, we could all use a little more of. While the 64 looks comprised of eclectic, opulent combinations, none of them felt totally unwearable. Pure romance.” - Emma Firth, Features Editor.

3/5

Matty Bovan’s distorted dystopia

The mood

Incase you needed a reminder of why London is at the epicentre of fashion creativity, just look to Matty Bovan. Ever pushing boundaries, the York-based designer faces the future with part ‘hope and fear’ (the title of the collection) for SS20. It’s time to unleash your inner survivalist; deconstructed utility-wear was underlying the collection, with a dosage of the designer’s signature sci-fi flair. Films he loves such as Blade Runner, Mad Max, Alien often come up as references. Pushing the post-apocalyptic trend, the Central Saint Martins alumni sent a riot of colour and volume down the runway, which featured a mix of almost restricted looks to open - referencing hospital garms, pressure suits and workman jackets - graduating to opulent parachute-style ball gowns and wearable art. It’s clear Matty is the master of hybrid, otherworldly garments and going all out on exaggerated proportions obscuring the body. One moment that had us both confused and exhilarated was a piece resembling a haute neck brace...or, um, a lampshade. We’re here for it. In stark contrast to some of the more supersized looks, the beauty vibe was more pared back, with most models opting for slick, tight ponytails. Elsewhere, The Arts and Crafts movement was another inspiration for the designer, referenced in mattress-like forms a la Tracey Emin to William Morris colourways and Liberty Fabrics. ‘Rather than allude to a variety of historic themes, this season I’ve brought in very specific elements from the real world,’ Matty explains. ‘Working from a single, distinct starting point – the clean functionality of uniform – also marks a departure from how I’ve gone about this before. Then I began looking at Charleston, Vanessa Bell’s country home. Bringing those Arts and Crafts aesthetics to functional shapes allows each to subvert the other.’

Stand out looks

Victorian puff-sleeve jackets and futuristic Edwardian dresses.

The FROW

Anna Wintour, Susie Lau, Edward Enningful and Daisy Lowe.

BTS Instagram follow

Music producer Steve Mackey - @steve__mackey.

The BURO. verdict

Matty’s patchwork-heavy designs never fail to satisfy my craving ‘more is more’ avant-garde - he celebrates fashion’s power to be rebellious, fun, nostalgic and futuristic all at once; imbued with rich texture details, Victorian silhouettes and sci-fi accents. Perhaps NSFW (Not Suitable For Work), of course, but for those who want to inject more drama into their wardrobe? It is utterly perfect.” - Emma Firth, Features Editor

4/5

Saint Laurent’s after-dark glamour

The mood

Saint Laurent’s show had the fashion pack in raptures. Bedazzled tuxedos, iridescent liquid crystals, micro-shorts (a consistant trend in all four fashion capitals), the inimitable Naomi Campbell closing the show: confident sex appeal reigned supreme. Beneath the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower, the opening looks included a seductive display of mostly head-to-toe black, packed with late 70s rock ’n’ roll adrenaline, with a serving of Le Smoking YSL heritage. Closing the show, Miss Campbell wore a sequin-drenched trouser suit for an elevated update on tailoring. As well as party season essentials, elsewear in the mix was also a nod to more boho, gypset sensibilities in the form of flirty dresses and exotic head scarves. While Anthony Vaccarello’s signature dark edge was a running theme, that isn’t to say it was all evening wear - see cut-off denim jeans, white shirt and blazer combination for an easy way to do everyday French glamour. Finishing touches for louche nonchalance? Betty Catroux-inspired oversized sunglasses and slouchy gold and black boots.

The models

Kaia Gerber, Liya Kebede, Naomi Campbell and Stella Tennant.

The muse

70s Parisian rock-chics.

The FROW

Kate Moss, Zoe Kravitz, Charlotte Gainsbourg and the style seductress that is Catherine Denueve.

The key look

Le Smoking 2.0: a sparkling tuxedo. Must. Have. Now.

5/5

Dior’s enchanted forest

The mood

It’s official: gardening couture is a thing (again). “I draw women-flowers, soft shoulders, fine waists like liana and wide skirts like corolla,” said Christian Dior of the botanical-inspired designs which formed the basis for his famous ‘new look.’ Referencing the legendary designer’s love of the great outdoors, Maria Grazia Chiuri took us to the woods for SS20, transforming the show venue into a spell-binding ‘inclusive garden’ - using trees sourced from nurseries in France, Germany and Italy. The collection reflected the beauty in nature: enter dream-like taffeta gowns, eco-printing, raffia hats and oversized knits mixed with hessian suits and skirts...styled out with sturdy workman’s boots. Horticulture: but make it fashion.

Fashion facts

Inspired by the meaning of gardens, rebirth and #plantingforourfuture, Maria Grazia Chiuri sourced 164 trees from nurseries in France, Germany and Italy, highlighting the need for bio-diversity to survive climate change. To create the set upcycled materials were enlisted, including wooden planks, and all the electricity produced for the show by generators were powered by canola oil.

BTS Instagram follow

Makeup artist Peter Philips - @peterphilipsmakeup.

The muse

The original Miss Dior - Dior's beloved sister, Catherine, who was a member of the French Resistance and straight after the war worked as a gardener, later selling flowers in the market at Les Halles in Paris. Maria Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from the photographs of Catherine Dior in which she appears amid her flowers in her garden.

The BURO. verdict

“Dior's SS20 call for action was married with a secret garden, botanical themes and endless artisanal pieces in earthy tones. The ultimate gardener look, raffia hats and worker boots mixed with hessian suits and skirts. Their collaboration with Coloco created the most ethereal landscape and reminded me of the transformative magic of fashion and how we can all continue to love beautiful clothing and be conscious. Exactly the reminder I needed this SS20.” - Naomi Barling, Fashion Editor

BURO. PLAYLIST

LISTEN TO THE SONGS THAT SOUNDTRACKED THE SS20 RUNWAYS

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