runway decoded

Dries Van Noten's Big Fashion Bromance

A return to 1980s decadence

Emma Firth | 09.10.2019

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The mood

Nothing makes us more giddy than a so-hot-right-now fashion collaboration. The most talked about collision this season? Enter two of fashion’s greats, Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix, teaming up for a tour-de-force of a collection that made a strong case for decadence and excess in progressively hard times. The key takeaway: Go big. Think Dynasty-style 80s glamour, part eighteenth century sensibility. A masterclass in craftsmanship and taste, the Dries-Lacroix girl is into sweet foil wrapper colours, high drama, unconventional draping, patterns galore and textural play. The fashion titans - who worked together secretly for the past five months on the show - fused their styles for a maximalist offering that made for a poetic love letter to haute couture a new-gen. Staged in the Paris’ Opéra Bastille, the joyful collection incorporated lustrous textures, poufs (of course), polka dots, animal prints and rich brocades. In many ways, it was a nod to Christian Lacroix’s signature high-drama he once sent down the runways (he own house closed in 2009), with a mashup of lavish embellishment, animal prints and polka dots and dress up box drapery. The base was a more sober offering - an ode to 90s minimalist in many ways - pairing ballgowns and bustier dresses with white jeans and vest tops. Styling trick 101: mix over-the-top abundance with 90s minimalism.

Fashion soundbites

Dries Van Noten noted he was drawn to ‘to a love of dressing up, to couture, to beauty, to audacity — to joy’ and ‘quickly realized that all roads seemed to lead to the work and world — of Mr. Christian Lacroix.’

BURO’s verdict

“One word can sum up this show: magic. This was pure escapism - something that, in this age of political uncertainty, we could all use a little more of. While the 64 looks comprised of eclectic, opulent combinations, none of them felt totally unwearable. Pure romance.” - Emma Firth, Features Editor.

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