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Bespoke Clothing: The Resurgence Of One Of A Kind
From up-cycling Nike trainers to made-to-measure slips, these are the brands to know
20.12.2019
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There’s no point denying the impact the fashion industry has on the environment, but what can we actually do about it? From upcycling to made-to-measure pieces, meet the designers working to change our experience of what we buy for good. It’s exactly what you need to defeat the Instagram echo chamber.
Moss Omey
Designer DNA: Emerging from a pattern-cutting pedigree, ‘off the rail’ sizes seemed at odds with her sensibility that the perfect fit is always critical, especially when it comes to slip dresses. Focusing on the concept ‘sustainable in the form of made-to-measure’, she challenges a world of oversaturated fast fashion by offering an alternative route to everyone's beloved wardrobe staple. Clients choose every element of the design from fabric to length, fit and cut and get their dress tailored to their shape over a series of fittings.
Moss on Sustainability: “I'm very conscious of being part of an industry contributing the most to pollution. I only shop vintage, thrift or make my own, I’m really strongly against mass production without thought and fast fashion online retailers often rely on that. The fabrics are often poor quality, the fit isn’t considered and to be able to sell at such a low price the person who made it will be paid almost nothing. I'm not claiming I can single-handedly change the fashion industry, but simply encourage a more sustainable option whereby a garment can have longevity. I encourage slips to be made in a variety of new and sourced vintage fabrics. I am continuously scouring house clearances, textile fairs, antique, vintage and flea markets for fabrics.”
How Did the Brand Grow?: “To begin with; a lot of word of mouth. Then a friend persuaded me to start an Instagram account and it’s grown from there.”
Get Yours: To enquire about a quote, arrange a fitting or simply find out more you can DM me on my Instagram account, email info@mossomey.com or I have an enquiry form on my website you can fill out: https://www.mossomey.com/enquire
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Ancuta Sarca
Designer DNA: Romanian-born Ancute is a womenswear designer based in London. She studied BA and MA fashion design in Romania and has worked for Meadham Kirchhoff and Ashish. Her mash-up hybrids are the exact shoes you didn’t know you needed. It all began with second-hand heels and Nikes being hunted down and dissected. Then the fun started as she found ways of handcrafted the elements back together, resulting in a bizarre trainer - so mad they are brilliant kitten heel, in a one-of-a-kind style.
Ancuta On Sustainability: Ancuta is a passionate advocate for circular design. Proposing her reworked kitten heels as an eco-friendly alternative to fast fashion. Her core concept is by reusing and re-working pieces she keeps her requirement for new raw materials to an absolute minimum.
Get Yours: Ancuta Sarca is sold on LN-CC in Dalston and you can also enquire for a pair VIA https://www.instagram.com/ancutasarca/
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Patrick Mcdowell
Designer DNA: Patrick strives to reinvent luxury with his rebooted designs using reclaimed, ethically produced and organic fabrics. His brand is all about sustainability. Drawing inspiration from his family roots in Liverpool and his personal relationships with clothes he combines masculine silhouettes with the hyper-glam associations of home. Think crystal dripping pouches with rock climbing finishes. Although committed to putting design first he is ingraining sustainability into every part of the business breaking the stereotypes of what a sustainable brand looks like.
Patrick On Sustainability: “If you do not adopt sustainable principles in your work you are part of the problem. Times are changing. The old fashion business model has a limited time to remain profitable.”
How Did The Brand Grow?: “Honestly? I am good at doing my own PR.”
Get Yours: Patrick collaborated with Tabitha Ringwood for his shoes which are all made to order. You can order the shoes as well as one off pieces via his studio email info@patrickmcdowell.co.uk. You can also rent his collections from the studio or Higher Studio and his mini bags are available on patrickmcdowell.co.uk
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Roker by Alim Latif
Designer DNA: Roker is a shoe brand with a bold vision. Alim Latif studied biochemistry before working in PR and marketing, but always had an interest in the creative field. Shoe design allowed him to work with his hands and combine creativity, functionality and technical skills. He went to work for T&F Slack shoemakers, where he learnt shoemaking, the importance of design and function, but also about craftsmanship and shortly after he set up Roker. Since its launch, he has collaborated with the likes of Charles Jeffrey, Art School, Richard Quinn, Louise Gray, Richard Malone, Ashley Williams, Pam Hogg and Dilara Findikoglu. With leathers sourced from Italy and an Atelier in London, you can stop by his studio to make all your shoe dreams come true. The designs are also available at Browns, Farfetch, Matches and Dover Street.
Roker on Sustainability: “Our roots are in bespoke design, we have bespoke clients and a lot of our projects are bespoke and made to order so we are not over-producing. I think it is important that products are made with care and with the intention of lasting. This can stop over-consumption.”
How Did The Brand Grow?: “A lot of hard work! We started off working with bespoke clients and doing bespoke projects such as partnering with ready to wear designers for London Fashion Week. This helped raise our profile and then we got requests from buyers and stylists for a collection.”
Get Yours: All the shoes are made in London. The brand is currently stocked on its own e-commerce www.rokeratelier.com as well as Browns Fashion & Farfetch. For clients that want to enquire about bespoke shoes contact info@rokeratelier.com
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If you want to go the DIY bespoke route
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