In times of uncertainty, looking to the past can be a source of deep comfort. A nourishing tonic adopted by fashion designers this season: from Lanvin’s love letters to the early noughties (calling on Paris Hilton to front their latest campaign to a partywear-driven AW21 collection set to Gwen Stefan’s 2004 anthem Rich Girl) to Jeremy Scott’s homage to Old Hollywood. The latest designer to put a fresh spin on timeless classics? Glenn Martens for Diesel. His 24-piece debut collection, entitled Diesel x Diesel, draws inspiration from the label’s own archives from the 1980s.
“We wanted to create a layered capsule; one that brings back vintage Diesel pieces while updating them for 2021, a year in which the world looks profoundly different than it did in the 1980’s,” Martens explains in a brand statement, who worked very closely with the brand’s founder Renzo Rosso on the project. “Renzo called it Diesel x Diesel, and I love this meta-referential title. It is a collection of revamped “classics”, brought into the brave new now.” Think preppy apparel and signature Diesel workwear, from leather and denim bomber/trucker jackets, hoodies, jeans, denim jumpsuits and A-line mini skirts.
The campaign film for the collection also has a neo-nostalgic feel: entitled “Fake Smiles”, the surreal one-minute video, shot in kaleidoscopic hues, features models in everyday scenarios with extra-large, exaggerated smiles.: washing the dishes, ironing, grilling a BBQ, sending emails on a retro keyboard at the office. As Martens explains, it’s a nod to our “constant pursuit of happiness.” The capsule will be March 29th, and the first full collection designed by Martens will be revealed in June during Milan Fashion week.
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