For obvious reasons, we’ll always have a soft spot for London Fashion Week. It’s where many of us experienced the madness that is Fashion Month for the first time. And while it certainly wasn’t – and shouldn’t have been – business as usual this season, there was still a lot to covet – as always.
Judging by what was on offer, lockdown was in fact a period that allowed designers to flourish, even if it hadn’t felt like it at the time. The codes of brands such as Molly Goddard, Supriya Lele and Simone Rocha were present and stronger than ever, while Victoria Beckham resisted the contemporary urge to showcase a tracksuit.
Casting, too, was a joy – a heterogeneous one. Roksanda’s models were ‘real’ women – like Noella Coursaris, the founder and CEO of the Malaika Foundation – placed in nine scenes around an apartment that she’d also designed. Where diversity shone the brightest, however, was at Art School. Eden Loweth’s show – staged in August – featured models who all differed in size, age, gender and ability. Ultimately, this signalled the need for unity above all else – and where better to address that need than on the catwalk?
So what did we love the most? Below are the trends from London Fashion Week that we can see ourselves in next year:
After the gloom of a global pandemic, everyone ought to be into colour. This won’t be too difficult to achieve if the colour in question comes from the likes of Molly Goddard and Roksanda.
As the clothes demonstrate, Christopher Kane painted intensely throughout lockdown – but he wasn’t the only designer to make painting a focal point of his collection. Another collaboration with the Magpie Project – a charity supporting immigrant women and children that the state doesn’t – Bethany Williams worked with the artist Melissa Kitty Jarram on hers.
Oddly enough for people who love clothes, we also love not wearing clothes – which basically means we love flesh-baring clothes. Amongst the colourful work-ready separates at Victoria Beckham were flashes of skin to have you living for the weekend, but this trend reached its full potential at Fashion East – see the Maximilian Davis collection for yourself if you don’t believe us.
There’s nothing cooler than practicality. Saul Nash - showing as part of Fashion East – showed us that with his entire collection, but it played out in subtler ways elsewhere also. Despite their obvious sensuality, Supriya Lele’s pieces are actually a lesson in layering and making clothes work for your own requirements. The shirting at Simone Rocha was enough to add a worldly edge to her typical dreamscape too.