New York, London, Paris, Milan, Copenhagen? Is the Danish capital the new It-city when it comes to fashion week? If the autumn/winter 2020 shows are anything to go by, then we think so. From camping becoming the hobby to have via Holzweiler to Henrik Vibskov going square eyed for shoes - these are the big moments from Copenhagen Fashion Week 2020.
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A little tip: If you’re more of a ‘blend in’ kind of person, stay clear of Stine Goya. If you particularly hate bees, stay clear of Stine Goya. In other words, Stine Goya is brilliantly bold. Where some designers tend to go neutral for their winter palette, Stine Goya introduces playful prints, purple, pink and lime green. It makes a case for combining textures, too - with silks, heavily embellishments and shearling by way of a Teddy coat in a mix of yellows and orange - a not so hidden camouflage if you will. Also note: obsession with colour even comes down to blue lips. From lipstick, not the Nordic winter climate, of course.
Power-puffed sleeves, quilted cotton and sculptural silhouettes are all a staple for Danish designer, Cecilie Bahnsen. Reinventing the typical consensus on feminine dressing with its conceptual balloon-like dresses, where it skips on cinched in waists it makes up for in embroidery, ribbon bow fastenings and volume, constructing oodles of girly pieces for the non girly-girl. This aesthetic isn’t new for Bahnsen, it’s been her signature style since she established the label in 2015. But as the saying goes; if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. We said give us more, and that she did.
Where Stine Goya may be leading with colour, and Cecile Bahnsen with monochrome, Norwegian brand Holzweiler went full on safari tones. Camel coats, khaki slacks and olive green puffer jackets are on offer, all styled with the utilitarian accessories you often get with Scandinavian dressing. Is camping cool now? According to Holzweiler it is. Find crossbody water bottle carriers, hats that actually shade the sun and boots that will take you from meetings to the mountains - you know, for all that hiking you’re about to take up.
According to Henrik Vibskov, there’s no such thing as too matchy-matchy. In fact, the show was two-piece galore. Sartorial two-pieces, organza two-pieces were a plenty. There was a conscious coupling of prints that would have made Paltrow very proud - floral shirts with matching socks as well as puffers that match your pants. We were also mildly obsessed with the array of square-toed boots, and to agree with Huey Lewis and the News, it’s hip to be square.
We may as name this new decade the Ganni golden age, because that’s what it’ll be defined by in 10 years. The Ganni effect is growing day by day, season by season - it’s gone beyond just ready-to-wear - now founder Ditte Reffstrup turns her head to sustainability and is working with a range of creatives from around the world under her Ganni 202020 project. But let’s not digress - for autumn/winter 2020 Ganni’s excellence continues. That peter pan collar blouse is reinstated, but this time overhauled with a lower neckline, and suiting takes form in a slouchy, relaxed silhouette. Whilst the overall Ganni aesthetic remains much the same, we celebrate seeing some of our favourite details again such as quilting and leopard print but with an injection of grunge.