runway decoded

Dior’s botanical spectacular

Substance, shine and sustainability - read BURO.'s verdict on Dior's SS20 runway

Emma Firth | 09.10.2019

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The mood

It’s official: gardening couture is a thing (again). “I draw women-flowers, soft shoulders, fine waists like liana and wide skirts like corolla,” said Christian Dior of the botanical-inspired designs which formed the basis for his famous ‘new look.’ Referencing the legendary designer’s love of the great outdoors, Maria Grazia Chiuri took us to the woods for SS20, transforming the show venue into a spell-binding ‘inclusive garden’ - using trees sourced from nurseries in France, Germany and Italy. The collection reflected the beauty in nature: enter dream-like taffeta gowns, eco-printing, raffia hats and oversized knits mixed with hessian suits and skirts...styled out with sturdy workman’s boots. Horticulture: but make it fashion.

Fashion facts

Inspired by the meaning of gardens, rebirth and #plantingforourfuture, Maria Grazia Chiuri sourced 164 trees from nurseries in France, Germany and Italy, highlighting the need for bio-diversity to survive climate change. To create the set upcycled materials were enlisted, including wooden planks, and all the electricity produced for the show by generators were powered by canola oil.

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Makeup artist Peter Philips - @peterphilipsmakeup.

The muse

The original Miss Dior - Dior's beloved sister, Catherine, who was a member of the French Resistance and straight after the war worked as a gardener, later selling flowers in the market at Les Halles in Paris. Maria Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from the photographs of Catherine Dior in which she appears amid her flowers in her garden.

The BURO. verdict

“Dior's SS20 call for action was married with a secret garden, botanical themes and endless artisanal pieces in earthy tones. The ultimate gardener look, raffia hats and worker boots mixed with hessian suits and skirts. Their collaboration with Coloco created the most ethereal landscape and reminded me of the transformative magic of fashion and how we can all continue to love beautiful clothing and be conscious. Exactly the reminder I needed this SS20.” - Naomi Barling, Fashion Editor

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