Last summer, Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello announced he was not planning on presenting his collection during Paris Fashion Week. Questions were raised. What would he do instead? Finally, yesterday all was revealed, in spectacular fashion, staging a catwalk in a mysterious desert. From the magnificent set to key looks, here is everything you need to know.
“The desert, to me, symbolizes that yearn for serenity, open space, a slower rhythm. The clothes are also softer, the spirit of the collection is more gentle, stripped back”, explained his choice of show location Anthony Vaccarello in the press notes. He did share where exactly the video was filmed, but it looked like a reference to the Sahara desert, and a nod to the house founder’s heritage (Yves Saint Laurent was born in Algeria, and adored spending time with his friends at his villa in Marrakesh, his endless source of inspiration).
Entitled “I wish you were here”, the collection echoed sentiments felt throughout this year punctuated by bubbles, social distancing rules, and separated from our family and friends. When models appeared out of nowhere and walked through the sandy dunes in the glamourous Saint Laurent looks to the piercing soundtrack of Sebastian (one of the hottest Parisian DJ’s currently).
“I wanted to focus on the essence of things. I think it’s a sign of the times. But I didn’t want anything bleak or heavy”, said Vaccarello, who dedicated his SS21 collection to the freedom of movement. Most of it was inspired by jersey dresses that Yves Saint Laurent designed in 1968: when Vaccarello found them in the house’s archives, he immediately thought that they are the ultimate comfort wear for the glamorous girls, who are spending much more time at home and have nowhere to go out now. Other highlights? Bike shorts paired with tailored belted jackets, black jumpsuits, lace shorts, blouses and chic silk pyjamas.
All of the looks were accompanied by signature jewellery pieces signed by French sculptor Claude Lalanne, one of Saint Laurent’s closest friends and collaborators, who passed away last year (the gilt metal cast of Veruschka’s bust is her creation). Think, bronze bras, dragonfly pendants, chain necklaces with crystals and flower chokers.
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