One down, three more to go. Time to gird your loins (and incessantly refresh your Instagram feed) for LFW this weekend, but until then here's a brief cheat sheet to the standout looks from New York Fashion Week's autumn/winter 2020 shows so far.
Gritty grunge, riffs on Jackie O’s sixties style, choreography from the celebrated “punk ballerina” of the 1980s (Karole Armitage): Marc Jacobs' standout show was a love letter to many a golden age, an ode to “a past New York I will forever love … mythical and chic with its beauty, promise, sparkle and grit,” according to the designer. The cherry on top of the fashion cake? A surprise cameo from Miley Cyrus – modelling a black bra-top, matching trousers and a zebra-print coat. Now that is how you close New York Fashion Week.
With strong fan game by way of Lizzo to Michelle Obama, Brooklyn-based designer Christopher John Rogers' second collection was the hottest ticket in town. A whimsical and also very modern remix of Old Hollywood style, with a smile-inducing offering of taffeta suits, voluminous skirts, balloon sleeves, iridescent materials and mountainous gowns. Breathtakingly beautiful.
Before launching her eponymous label in 2004, Tory Burch was climbing the art world career ladder (she has a degree in Art History and worked in prestigious auction houses before pivoting into PR, and later fashion design). It’s perhaps unsurprising then that Tory’s AW20 muse is ceramicist Francesca DiMattio (her work, she says “imbues the decorative with strength and power”). Playing with proportions, the collection features architectural hemlines, exaggerated sleeves and tailored trousers tucked into over-the-knee boots (looks like this trend is a keeper).
The brand that made the sexigan (that’s sexy cardigan) happen, with a little help from a former Dawson’s Creek-er, showcased a collection infused with seductive accents. Think: cheetah-print velvet, flesh-baring jackets, recycled cashmere and bodices traced by Swarovski Crystals. According to show notes, this season was “instinctive—a stream of consciousness shaped by pure desire.”
OK, so it’s pure romance you’re after? Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy's dramatic return to the NYFW calendar - the iconic design duo have been no-shows for over two years – brought the goods and some. Part fashion Corpse Bride (it’s a thing), part A Midsummer Night's Dream. Honestly, we thought we were done with flower crowns, but this may just sway us for a double take. The modern-day update? Pair yours with a dark plum, almost black lipstick, et voila!
For those who want to brighten up their autumn/winter wardrobe, look no further than Carolina Herrera’s kaleidoscopic model army, resplendent in an array of sorbet shades. A clementine orange ruffle dress? Why not. A zesty lemon jumpsuit? Oooh go on, then...
CREDITS | pictures via shutterstock