September is, generally, a month of many a splendid thing. Fresh stationery, new beginnings, the return of layering. For fashion aficionados it means one thing, and one thing only: Fashion Month. Of course, FM, in its BC (Before Covid) state is inconceivable with social distancing and limitations on travel (and that’s all before you take into consideration cancelled shows, shop closures et al as a result of the pandemic). Though, that’s not to say the fashion calendar has evaporated altogether. Here’s what to expect from the Big Four this season…
13 - 14 September
Traditionally the shows start in New York. This year the official calendar has been reduced and many brands - such as Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors - have decided to opt out of the event. So, it perhaps little surprise the Council of Fashion Designers of America will be gambling on a digital experience for international buyers and press (they developed a special platform called Runway360 with digital showrooms.)
17 - 22 September
London Fashion Week will feature both menswear and womenswear brands. They have an option to show in physical, digital or produce a mix of both. The online platform developed for shows in June is here to stay. This season, featuring the likes of Burberry, Simone Rocha, ERDEM, Jonathan W. Anderson, Victoria Beckham, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn, Rixo, Richard Malone and many more.
22 - 28 September
Milan Fashion Week is a combination of physical and digital events (in total there are 24 digital shows against 28 physical events), with an emphasis on real life shows from big fashion players such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Versace. Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Moschino and Jil Sander, will be we be opting out this season. The most talked about show of the season is still on: Raf Simons’ debut for Prada.
28 September - 6 October
Even though French officials have announced new rules for Parisians (the number of Coronavirus cases grows every day and the UK government has imposed a quarantine on travellers coming from France), Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode still plans to host Paris Fashion Week. We are still not sure whether Chanel will stage another extravaganza at le Grand Palais, due to travel complications. Other power house brands, such as Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermès, have confirmed they will participate this season.
There are 10 newcomers who will stage their shows in Paris for SS21. Gabriella Hirst and Grace Wales Bonner both decided to skip their native fashion weeks in favour of the city of lights (New York for Hirst and London for Wales Bonner). This season is the first time French contemporary brand AMI and American brand Enfants Riches Deprimés have showcased their collections as part of the womenswear calendar. Other newcomers to watch: French-based Ester Manas, Vejas and Mossi, S.R Studio LA CA (from California), cult Danish label Cecile Behnsen from Denmark and Tiblisi-based brand Situationist.
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