The upside of an economy that’s as reliable as, oh say, Boris Johnson’s political manifesto? The rise of the side-hustler. These days, there’s minimal degrees of separation between you and that yoga-loving criminal lawyer, who also puts on a supper club once a month. Heck, maybe this is you (if so, bravo, and let’s do dinner some time). Designers, too, are getting in on the ‘jack of all trades, master of all’ action.
“I’m drawn to printmaking [and] painting - and I would love to make music someday,” said Charles Jeffrey, at Frieze Academy’s Art & Fashion Summit in London. “People are interested in worlds, as well as clothing.” The Scottish designer is no stranger to adding strings to his tartan-clad bows: his already-packed CV which boasts illustrator, MAC cosmetics collaborator and founder of his own club night in East London.
Today, emerging visionaries are shaping their own path(s) and luxury brands are breaking out of the one-trick mould to reach new audiences. Whether that’s through styling and TV appearances to DJ’ing and launching a video series (more on Alexander Wang’s new chat show 'Potty Talk’ below, but yes, we’re very excited). Below, BURO. takes a closer look at fashion’s ‘PC’ (polymath creative) vanguard disrupting the fashion game…
The chat show formula of yesteryear? Get celebrities on your show, where they’ll recite a few funny anecdotes and maybe, if there’s time, the host might try and gauche some details about said interviewee’s famous ex. Of course, now the real star of the chat show is the recurring segment (we’re looking at you: Carpool Karaoke, Wheel of Musical Impressions and Celebrities Read Mean Tweets). So, BURO.’s more than a bit giddy over the news fashion designer Alexander Wang is to launch a chat series Potty Talk, for the new short-form video-streaming platform, Quibi. Launching in spring 2020, Potty Talk sees Wang host intimate conversations with VIP guests in one of the most intimate places… the bathroom. Wang is the first fashion designer to announce his involvement with the mobile-focused streaming service. “Being given the opportunity to re-contextualise the talk-show format is a dream,” Wang said in a release. “Pushing the boundaries on an institutionalised model is something I’m always up for.” Whilst guests are currently yet to be announced, Deadline reports the show will feature “his A-list friends, old and new,” who will engage in “candid conversations, fun games and bathroom banter.” Triple threat.
As well as being a street style star, DJ and producer, Peggy Gou can add designer to her packed plate. Influenced by her personal style, Gou’s fashion label Kirin- which means “giraffe” in Korean - is the perfect off-beat fusion of club culture graphics, bold colour blocking and Korean mythological motifs. She launched the label for autumn/winter 2019 during Paris Fashion Week, in partnership with Italian fashion production company New Guards Group (which is the also the umbrella company of Off-White, created by fellow tastemaker/DJ/designer Virgil Abloh). High octane streetwear we can’t get enough of.
Matty Bovan SS20
Matty Bovan’s status has risen so rapidly he’s punctured the ‘ones to watch’ balloon to becoming one of the most talked-about names in fashion with remarkable ease, in just a couple of years. The most exciting thing about London Fashion Week, in comparison to other capitals, is the eccentricity of it all; the element of surprise (remember when the actual Queen made a cameo at Richard Quinn’s show?!) and theatrically - and this rebellious streak is Matty B’s signature. In all facets of his creative life, Bovan goes big: whether that’s designing a collection of post-apocalyptic ensembles to showcasing his own extreme beauty looks on the ‘gram. The Yorkshire talent has also created several zines - releasing his most recent logomania-driven offering Beautiful Teddy in July - collaborating with rising photographers including Dexter Lander, Bryony Walsh and Lucy Alex Mac. Of his medieval-inspired zine, NEED4MEAD in 2018, he said in an interview that it isn’t just about clothes, “it’s about characters,” adding “I really wanted to expand my visual landscape and narrative further than I ever have.”
BRANDON MAXWELL WITH LADY GAGA
Lady Gaga’s stylist, TV personality, designer and photographer: Brandon Maxwell is the epitome of the ‘slasher’. Even before he launched his ready-to-wear label in 2015, the Texas designer was a name (largely due to the fact he had been acting as Gaga’s fashion director since 2012). Maxwell’s cosmopolitan-chic designs consistently garner runway and red-carpet success - see the superbly chic bridal-inspired gown worn by Dakota Johnson at the Governors Awards from his SS20 collection. Oh, and he’s a judge on the new season of Project Runway, working alongside Karlie Kloss. All in a day’s work ‘ey.
BRANDON MAXWELL Faille-trimmed silk crepe de chine jumpsuit £2,360 via net-a-porter
Charles Jeffrey - designer, illustrator and self-proclaimed ‘club kid’ - knows how to put on a show. The Glaswegian talent’s runways are Drama with a capital ‘D’, rousing his gang of collaborators, that include set designers, drag queens, actors and choreographers to create something that often leaves editors wanting another hit once it’s all over. Before launching his label, the Central Saint Martins alumni put on his own successful Loverboy club night at cult East London venue VFD (formerly Vogue Fabrics) in Dalston and hopes to make his own music in the future. Alongside his other work, Jeffrey also produces fashion illustrations and installations. In 2017, his debut solo exhibition, ‘THE COME UP’ at the NOW Gallery in London, was based around Charles’ illustrations and amplified via new media.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
all images from shutterstock
BURO.’s curation of the books on the art of collaboration…