Skye's The Limit

where to Stay on the isle of skye

True to the well-worn vision of Skye we’ve conjured, lodges, cabins and cottages litter the island, each offering a different take on the Scottish sojourn. Pared back and quietly confident, The Black Shed stands out. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the Skye you’re searching for, with new showings every hour. A wood-burning stove takes centre stage in the living room and there’s a kitchen that’s stocked with supplies. Owners Blair and Tim have been perfecting the place for over ten years and have also taken their insights and love for all things local to The Dunvegan. Formerly a much-loved drinking den, it’s now a boutique hotel that’s still at the heart of the community.

what to see on the isle of skye

Criss-crossing the island in pursuit of postcard landmarks (the Old Man of Storr, the Fairy Pools) it’s clear the big hitters are simply gateways to unsung heroes. While Neist Point’s lighthouse is a formidable silhouette, the sweeping views from nearby Waterstein Head steal its thunder. Blustery beaching is an obligatory pastime and Coral Beach is a must for its views, back across Dunvegan Castle. With its vast rocky bay and a waterfall that flows upwards on windy days (which is most days), Talisker Beach is a standout.

best coffee on the isle of skye

Once confined to firesides, talk of the town now takes place in coffee shops. Where once you’d find neeps you can now expect bags of ethically sourced beans. Leading the charge is Caora Dhubh Coffee Company in Carbost, the polished take-out spot is a favourite of bands who’d flinch at the word indie. Single Track Gallery and Espresso serve up soup with a side of art. This Kickstarter-born café garners rave reviews for its killer coffee. It’s hard to reach and harder to leave.

where to eat on the isle of skye

Swing a left as you pass the Talisker Distillery, head up the hill and The Oyster Shed awaits. As the name suggests, it’s a no-frills, plenty of thrills shed overlooking Loch Harport. BYOB, grab a table and shuck the breeze with the oyster farmer himself whose produce is all plucked from the water below. For a more refined take, make for Loch Bay - an intimate restaurant that chef Michael Smith has already steered for a star (after doing the same at nearby Three Chimneys). If you want to see how the locals let their hair down, the aforementioned Dunvegan comes alive at night with live music and livelier tales, there’s no better place to sink whisky while the moon rises.

where to shop on the isle of skye

Before social media the only way to unsubtly signal that you’d had a Scottish stopover was to return plastered in tweed. If you’re a traditionalist then the pedal-powered Skye Weavers has you covered, and for the more modest, they’re equally adept at quieter colour combinations. A trip to the Talisker Distillery is worth its weight in whisky, though just to warn, the gift shop blends dangerously with the bar, and so afternoon plans can go awry. If for some reason you find yourself craving crowds then aim for the comparably bustling Portree where you’ll find artisanal boutiques like ÒR, home to locally thrown ceramics and coffee table books.

All photographs by Louis A. W. Sheridan
Louis drove a Volvo XC90 c/o Volvo