Fresh new beginnings were in store at New York Fashion Week for J.Crew, Suno and DKNY. For the J.Crew Spring/Summer 16 collection, Jenna Lyons looked to the past to envision the future, whilst Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty find their inspiration in the minds of young artists who've organised their mania in structured pieces of art for Suno, and DKNY welcomes its next-generation shepherds. All seemingly inspired by young minds and fresh ideals, join us as we take a closer look at these three different collections...
Suno Spring/Summer 16
Suno designers, Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty found the inspiration for their Spring/Summer 16 collection on a trip to an American Folk Art Museum in New York. "What we loved about [one exhibit] was that it celebrated these unknown artists who were dealing with their own manias in a lot of ways," said Beatty. "There was something about the way the artists ordered objects, organising things as a way to comfort themselves."
Taking that organisation and turning it into something wearable, the designers focussed on the organisation of prints and lines throughout their collection. The colour palette included subdued shades of blue and army green with splashes of orange and rust throughout. The boxy and striped geometric prints were softened by hand drawn accents added to the designs.
The collection itself emanated a very artsy feel as there was a theme of layered prints such as one look which included a navy and white plaid seersucker dress styled over a gingham poplin button-down. Whilst the military-inspired silhouettes suggested androgyny – subtle hints of femininity appeared throughout in details like the eyelet embroidered hemlines and floral prints on fluid silk dresses.
Osterweis and Beatty took this opportunity to debut their new footwear line. "We wanted to create a city shoe that felt inspired yet functional - playful, but still easy," Beatty said. "Like our clothes, we wanted the shoes to carry you through the day - stylishly and comfortably. Not too dainty, not too pointy, not too fierce, but somehow making just the right statement." The launch comes after eleven season of collaborations with Nicholas Kirkwood for the brand's runway show. Discover the collection in full via our gallery below...
J Crew Spring/Summer 16
Jenna Lyons direction for J.Crew's Spring/Summer 16 collection (below) gave the traditionally preppy brand a sharp turn towards fashion forward, whilst still sticking to timeless styles.
Though the designer kept her New York Fashion Week showcase deeply rooted in the brand's traditional American summer dressing – she added an element of fun, giving the classic brand a new-age playful twist. Sun-drenched pastels and pops of bright rainbow hues gave the collection an electrifying energy. There was a timelessness throughout even whilst accessories such as chunky floral neon jewellery mixed and matched throughout the collection.
This quirky juxtaposition of dressy and casual meant a classic Madras pattern being updated with clear sequins on a skirt for a casual take on night, and a gingham blazer pared with bejewelled shorts for day.
DKNY Spring/Summer 16
DNKY's Spring/Summer 16 show at New York Fashion Week marked a major moment for the brand as founder and designer, Donna Karan passed the torch to Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne.
Sat in the audience to watch this monumental moment from the sidelines, Donna Karan looked on as one of the crowd at the Westfield World Trade Centre West Gallery (a.k.a. the new PATH station) where Chow and Osborne offered the first glimpse of their vision for the future of DKNY.
The duo focused heavily on tailoring, paying overt homage to one of the greatest houses in the history of American fashion. First sending a sharply tailored pin-striped jacket over a crisp white shirting romper as their opening look, later Chow and Osborne followed up with two photo-print looks, one with Peter Lindbergh's campaign photo of a model standing at the corner of William Street and Exchange Place in the Financial District; the other, a 1985 still of Rosemary McGrotha in Donna Karan's first campaign shot by Denis Piel.
Delivering the collection with a certain sophistication, the spotlight was on tailoring and a balance between men's suiting and white shirting fabrics. Chow and Osborne took these key elements and added their own edge by manipulating the traditional construction with twists, folding, pleating and cutting away.
When speaking of their design style and outlook on the future of DKNY, the duo said to WWD earlier this month, "Our customers are our peers, everyone who is still on their journey," Osborne said. She's a woman, Chow added, who's "just getting into her own in terms of career, starting a family, her life is multilayered with different dimensions."