Francisco Costa titled his Spring/Summer 16 collection for Calvin Klein the "morning after" to conjure the intimate daze of undone sensuality captured in the moments of deconstructed purity and grunge glamour.
Keeping the colour palette subdued in shades of stark white, porcelain and black with very few appearances of bright colours, the collection remained edgy, as well-intended by the designer.
Print made its way into the collection in the form of photographic peony bouquets, some of which were faded, others were saturated blooms which popped against beige backgrounds. Mixed with solids on long lean silhouettes such as dresses, trenches and slips, the print still managed to feel in line with Costa's grunge glamour in languid lengths.
Tapping into Nineties megatrends – neo-grunge and stark street minimalism – the Spring/Summer 16 collection featured fluid slips, camisoles, wide trousers and trenches with deliberately large yet gentle proportions.
The slip dress, an item native to the Calvin Klein house, played a pivotal role in the collection, as Costa sent various versions of the garment down the runway in a variety of colours and cuts.
Details included seams traced in rough-hewn stitching and trailing loose straps as well as elongated sleeves that suggested a very clinical asylum-like feel that was at once chic and modern.
Each look was polished off with a pair of white-soled sneakers rather than a pair of overtly provocative heels, resulting in a fresh-feeling contemporary collection.
Discover the collection in full via our gallery below...