E stee Lauder is set to "disrupt the beauty industry" as they launch their new contour collection, which is being dubbed the "the biggest innovation since Advance Night Repair, which happened in 1982". In Dubai we sit down with Estee Lauder's Director of Global Makeup Artistry, Blair Patterson, to discuss the collection, which is designed to capture our best contoured camera angle appearance, sans clown face...
Estee Lauder is launching a new contoured collection, tell us about it...
For three years they've been trying to crack that code. It's all about the structure: it's the cheekbones, getting the angles and the lift. Volume: The sagging, the collagen becomes less as you get older so that's why with the combination, we pump it up and structure it up.
The conversation began because of the trend to contour, but I don't even know if we can call it a trend anymore. So if we were going to do a contouring palette in skincare, we'd start from the inside out. We also have a cool product called a liquid tape.
You have to apply it on a blank canvas — shower, wash your face and leave it to dry and then put it on, hold it in place for five seconds and it gets rid of wrinkles... not even kidding!
The serum has pro-collagen in it and so much technology. The natural collagen production, is what makes it an innovative serum, which creates a really nice facial structure.
But you've also launched a make-up collection...
The main hero of this whole collection for us in the region is the make-up because contour is everywhere.
Kim Kardashian is one of those main stays that has brought contouring to a global level and so may people try and copy it but get it wrong...
I would say 90 per cent of women that wear make-up on a daily basis are already contouring — they just don't know it. They've been doing it since the '80's and '90's. Bronzers and blushers are now shown on Instagram and in Youtube videos and its become such a buzzed about thing. Now it's booming more but it's out of control and more circus-y. But when you look at the basics of contouring and highlighting, it's super simple.
What's your top tip for contouring and highlighting?
If you have the light over your head, all of the areas of your face, which highlight, need to be highlighted. Then take a light and put it under your chin — all of the places where the light hits are your contour. It's that simple!
Either buy a flash light or stand under a light and turn off all the other lights.
As we move away from bronzers and more towards contours, what's one thing people should keep in mind?
Bronzing started in the '80's to enhance a tan or create a look that wasn't centralised to the cheeks. With contouring, use a cream! It's 10 times easier to blend than a powder. My personal philosophy is 50 per cent wet products, plus 50 per cent dry products on the face mimic skin better than if you're using a foundation, a powder, powdered blush and a powdered bronzer.
Why is that?
Because skin has different layers to it. When you layer your foundation, a powder, a cream bronzer or a cream contour and then use a powdered blush you're building up layers and body. So when light hits your skin, it looks more real and it's a lot more forgiving because if you mess up and you have a foundation on it can be fixed.
What's the best way to apply a contouring cream?
There's two way to apply it: For a woman that maybe doesn't know how to contour or thinks she's too old for it, put the product on first and try your foundation over the top. Then pat it in and you'll get a much more natural sculpting effect but if you want a harder, cooler, edgier look put it over the top of your foundation and mix it with a highlighting cream.
Does the adage practice makes perfect apply to contouring?
It's always about experimenting. The best way to learn new techniques is at night when you get home from work, in front of the television, when there's nothing to do and if you make a mistake just wash your face, go to bed and try it again the next night. Never do it in the morning when you're about to face the world. No matter what you do, you don't want people to be like what's on your face? As a make-up artist, being good at application is just about practice.
We've been talking about contouring cheeks but where else can you contour?
The temples, sides of the nose, forehead and chin are really the main areas and if you don't want to go that far then I say cheekbones and apples of the cheeks. People also really respond to contouring the sides of their nose. They love it because men and women right now just don't love their nose.